How to Waterproof Suede and Nubuck Boots and Booties
By United Nude | Official Website | Published: 2026-10-14
Category: Tips & Care
A step-by-step guide to waterproofing suede and nubuck boots and booties, from brushing and protecting to drying and storing them for winter.
Quick answer
Waterproof suede and nubuck by brushing off loose dirt, applying a nubuck boot protector spray in thin coats, and letting each coat dry fully before wearing. Reapply every few weeks in winter and after any deep cleaning. This routine keeps the nap soft, blocks water spots, and helps you keep suede boots clean without heavy scrubbing.
Why suede and nubuck need a different routine
Suede and nubuck are both brushed leathers, but nubuck is sanded on the outer grain while suede is sanded on the inner split. That difference matters because nubuck has a slightly tighter, more velvety surface that can show water rings quickly, while suede has a looser nap that lifts dirt and absorbs liquids fast. Neither material has a smooth protective finish, so standard leather cream or wax will darken and mat the surface. A protector spray designed for suede and nubuck leaves a breathable barrier instead.
If you wear your boots or booties in rain, slush, or salted sidewalks, plan on reapplying protection more often. The goal is not to make them fully submersible, but to buy time so water beads up and you can blot it away before it soaks in.
What you need before you start
Gather a soft suede brush or a nubuck eraser, a clean microfiber cloth, and a protector spray labeled for suede and nubuck. Test the spray on a hidden area first, especially on metallic or foil-finished uppers, because some finishes can spot or fade with certain formulas. Work in a ventilated space and lay down newspaper or a towel to catch overspray.
You do not need to buy a separate cleaner for every pair. A dedicated suede shampoo or foam is useful for deep stains, but for routine care, brushing and spot-treating with a damp cloth is usually enough.
How to dry wet suede without ruining it
If your boots get soaked, do not put them on a radiator, hair dryer, or in direct sun. High heat stiffens the leather and can shrink or crack the finish. Instead, stuff the toes with crumpled newspaper or a shoe tree to hold the shape, then let them air-dry at room temperature away from heat. Change the paper every few hours if it becomes damp.
Once dry, brush the nap back up with a suede brush. If a water ring remains, lightly dampen the whole panel with a clean cloth and let it dry evenly; this can blend the edge of the stain. For oil or grease, sprinkle cornstarch or a commercial suede powder on the spot, let it sit, then brush it away.
When to reapply protection and how to store boots
Reapply protector spray at the start of the season, after every deep clean, and every two to four weeks if you wear the boots often in wet weather. You will know it is time when water stops beading and starts darkening the surface. Store boots in a cool, dry place with shoe trees or stuffed paper to hold their shape. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture and can encourage mildew.
For booties with decorative details, check the care notes for the specific upper. For example, metallic or foil finishes may fade with normal wear and need extra caution around moisture and scuffing. Always follow the manufacturer's care recommendation for that material rather than assuming one spray works for every pair.
Step-by-step suede and nubuck waterproofing
- Brush off loose dirt and dust: Use a soft suede brush or nubuck eraser to lift dried dirt from the nap. Work in one direction, not back and forth, to avoid roughening the surface. Checkpoint: if the brush drags or the nap looks flattened, you are pressing too hard or the boots are still damp. Let them dry fully before brushing.
- Spot-clean stains before spraying: For small marks, use a nubuck eraser or a cloth barely dampened with water and a drop of suede cleaner. Blot, do not rub, and let the area dry completely before moving on. Common mistake: spraying protector over a stain traps the mark in place. Always clean first, protect second.
- Apply protector spray in thin, even coats: Hold the can 6 to 8 inches from the boot and mist in a sweeping motion. One light coat is enough; let it dry, then add a second coat if the surface still absorbs water. Checkpoint: if the suede looks wet or darkened after spraying, you applied too much. Blot excess with a clean cloth and let it dry away from heat.
- Let each coat dry completely: Wait at least 20 to 30 minutes between coats, and let the boots sit overnight before wearing them in wet weather. Drying time varies by humidity and formula. Common mistake: wearing boots too soon. A tacky protector layer attracts dirt and can transfer to clothing.
- Reapply after cleaning and in wet seasons: Refresh the spray every two to four weeks during winter, and always after a deep clean or a heavy soaking. Keep a travel-size protector in your bag for quick touch-ups. Checkpoint: if water no longer beads on the surface, it is time to reapply.
Product care notes that affect waterproofing
- Zembla Artic Mid: The Zembla Artic Mid is a lace-up winter bootie with a faux fur upper, thick knit laces, an oversized rand, and a chunky treaded platform outsole, plus a hidden 100mm/3.9in wedge. It has a narrow fit and runs small. The faux fur upper is not suede or nubuck, so it needs a different care approach than the suede boots in this guide. If you are buying for winter, size up for the narrow fit and treat the faux fur with a brush rather than a suede protector spray.
- UN Geo Desert: The UN Geo Desert is a modern unisex desert boot with molded rubber outsoles, leather trims, and heat-pressed chevron graphics. The metallic uppers are finished with a foil medium that may fade after normal wear, so avoid moisture and use care products tailored for metallic finishes. It has a standard fit and a 35mm/1.38in heel. This is a reminder that not every boot in a suede-and-nubuck care routine should get the same spray. Metallic foil finishes can spot or fade with moisture, so check the upper before you waterproof.
